Sometimes permanent makeup or microblading doesn’t heal exactly the hue that we would wish it to. Colour theory can be a difficult concept to grasp, and the skin often acts in a way that we may not expect.
Add to this that pgment colours can shift and change in the skin over time, and we find the need for pigment modifiers to correct work…..This is where modifiers from Li Pigments come in!
NB: Li Pigments have been making permanent makeup pigments for 30+ years, and are the makers of the Monica Ivani Signature Series, and are a great addition if you use the Monica Ivani Pigment range!
We might add a pigment modifier to our cup because we know that skin will act in a certain way.
We may add them because we know our pigment may act a certain way, or we may add them to change or correct how pigment looks that is already healed in the skin.
Some pigment ranges already have a little modifier added to them, and maybe known as “pre-modified”, but we still need to consider that different skins or techniques may need modification, whilst some do not.
Modifiers are an additive, which allow you to warm up your pigments, or cool them down - depending on what you are trying to achieve.
They can be used on brows and PMU that we would consider to be old, freshly healed, or on new work!
There are a number of modifiers in the Li Pigment range, three of them which are specifically for adding warmth:
Li Ungrey - Orange Based
Li Orange Crush (EU REACH Formulation) - Orange Based
Li Gray Vanish - Orange and Yellow Based
They are all In-Organic, so they do not contain carbon based ingredients. They also react well under laser and saline removal should brows need to be removed/lightened in the future for any reason.
Li Un-Gray/Li Orange Crush is an incredibly warm, orange based modifier for permanent makeup and Microblading pigments that have healed too cool, or too grey. Gray tends to be the US spelling of the colour - hence its name “un-gray”. Li Orange Crush is the EU REACH Modifier that replaces Li Un-gray in EU Territories, or for those that wish to use REACH regulation formulas.
Because of its intensity, you would usually choose Li Ungrey or Orange Crush to modify pigments that are darker in colour, or to modify work which is more intensely gray/grey/blue/cool.
Li Gray Vanish is a warm deep yellow, orange-toned modifier for permanent makeup microblading. Just like Un-grey/Orange crush it is also used for the correction of brows/PMU that have healed too grey or cool.
Li Gray Vanish is not as intense as Li Ungray/Orange Crush. We would choose Gray Vanish if we are planning on choosing a lighter brown target colour for our permanent makeup - as we can add it to lighter colours without brightening them too much. The yellow base makes it less “powerful” so although just like Un-grey it should be used minimally, we can use it as a precautionary additive, or as an “insurance policy” against our work healing too cool.
Whether the brows you are tackling are charcoal gray, dark grey, or even have a tinge of blueish grey to them, Li Ungray, Orange Crush, grey vanish pigment modifiers can be used to add warmth and lessen the coolness.
We are going to look at how to use Un-Grey/Orange Crush, and Grey Vanish in more detail. However you chose to use it, Li Un-gray/Orange Crush should be used cautiously, as it is a very strong modifier. Li Grey Vanish is not quite as intense, but whichever modifier you choose, we never want to add more than we think we need! There are a few ways you can use modifiers, but here are some of my favourite tips, and favourite ways to use them…(and of course how NOT to!)
HOW TO USE Li UNGRAY/ Li ORANGE CRUSH
For very stubborn, or heavier greyed brows, you can use a pass or two of Un-Grey/Orange Crush neat/on its own to warm the base of your brow, before finishing the work with the target brown. You can choose to add a little to the final target brown too.
You have a client who has dark brow hair, and wants a mid-dark result. You would like to use Li Dark Toffee Pigment or Monica Ivani Absolute Brown as the final colour, but she has quite a dense grey, blue, base from
previous PMU or microblading that you would like to correct or modify before starting.
(You can see this layering process in the picture at the beginning of the article)
- 1-2 Passes of neat Li Un-Gray/Li Orange Crush (to boost the warmth of the base)
- Followed by 1-2 Passes of Li Dark Toffee/Monica Ivani Absolute Brown with a dot of Li Ungrey/Orange Crush added (as Dark Toffee & Absolute Brown are cool colours and you do not want to “undo your warm base building"
If your starting point is not too dense, you can add a little Li Ungrey/Orange Crush to your pigment to warm it up as below:
You have a client who has dark brow hair, and wants a mid-dark result. You would like to use Li Dark Toffee Pigment/Monica Ivani Absolute Brown as the final colour, but she has a faded grey brow from previous PMU or microblading
- Add approx 5% of Li Ungray/Orange Crush (This is approx a drop on end of a toothpick to a small pigment cap of pigment) to your Li Dark Toffee/Absolute Brown, and complete your brow as normal.
For eyeliners, use Li Ungrey/Li Orange Crush to prevent a blueish heal and maintain a beautiful back colour in the skin.
Overall, you can add Li UnGray/Orange Crush to any medium to dark brown pigment to add warmth.
CAUTION it is not advised to add to blondes or light brown pigment shades due to it's powerful nature. You need only use a small amount, never more than you think you may need. For those cases with lighter brows/pigment choices the Li Grey Vanish Modifier, which has a yellow base would be a better choice
For sheer, or partially greyed brows, you can use a pass or two of Li Grey Vanish neat/on its own to warm the base of your brow, before finishing the work with the target brown. You can choose to add a little to the
final target brown too.
You have a client who has light brow hair, and wants a light/medium result. You would like to use Monica Ivani Faux Brown Pigment as the final colour, but she has little grey-ish base from previous PMU or microblading that you would like to correct or modify before starting.
- 1-2 Passes of neat Li Grey Vanish (to boost the warmth of the base)
- Followed by 1-2 Passes of Faux Brown, with a dot of Li Grey Vanish added (as Monica Ivani Faux Brown is already formulated to be pre-modified you may not need this step)
If your starting point is not too dense, you can add a little Li Grey Vanish to your pigment to warm it up as below:
You have a client who has light brow hair, and wants a light/medium result. You would like to use Monica Ivani Faux Brown t as the final colour, but she has a faded grey brow from previous PMU or microblading
- Add approx 5-10% (This is approx a half a drop to a small pigment cap of pigment) to your Monica Ivani Faux Brown, and complete your brow as normal.
You have a client with virgin skin whom you are worried that their skin/pigment may heal a little cooler than you would like.
- Add approx 5-10% (This is approx a half a drop to a small pigment cap of pigment) to your pigment and complete your brow as normal. Bear in mind that with darker pigments like Monica Ivani Dark Heart, this may also lighten the target colour, so a teeeeeny dot of Li Un-Gray/Orange Crush may be a better choice with darker pigments.
Whichever example you use, never add more warmth than you need, and especially use Un-Gray with caution. If you use too much warmth, especially on "virgin skin" you may see more red/warmth than you would want as the permanent makeup ages over time.