Permanent Makeup Pigments

How To Change

Permanent Makeup

Pigment Brand

With As

Few Hitches As Possible


Why change pigment line?


Maybe you learned with a certain permanent makeup pigment range and want to broaden your horizons. Maybe you are frustrated by your current range? Maybe you just feel it’s time for a change?! I personally learned with LI Aqua Pigments, and have used many brands over the years!

Maybe you are wanting to switch from organics to in-organics or over to hybrids?

My all time favorite ranges are those from Li Pigments, BUT this guide is designed to help you to move to ANY pigment line 😀


It’s important to know before we begin that there is no such thing as a perfect pigment. The skin is a living canvas and has many characteristics, and different permanent makeup pigment lines may be better suited for those characteristics than others AND/OR the techniques we are using in those skins.


Example: I may use a different pigment line in corrections of old faded salmon brows than I would on virgin skin wanting hairstrokes.

FOLLOW INDUSTRY LEADERS THAT HAVE BEEN USING LI PIGMENTS FOR YEARS!

Li have a number of ranges:

Li Aqua (In-Organic)

Mainly in-organic, highly concentrated with a water-based formulation, the Aqua collection from Li Pigments have a smooth, creamy base for effortless implantation into the skin.

LI Loaded (Organic)

Organic: An innovative collection of 15-shade organic brow pigments, Loaded by Li Pigments offer a perfect solution. Highly concentrated for a smooth consistency

Li Aqua Euro (Hybrid)

Li Pigments EURO Range offersa wide variety of versatile pre-neutralized colorants that produce beautiful PMU results for all skin types and techniques. The unique and highly concentrated formulas allow for easy implantation with minimal mixing required.

Know what you are already using -

Before you embark on a pigment change, do you know what you are already using? Organics (carbon based)? In-organics (iron oxide based)? or Hybrid? They will all act differently in the skin, so it’s worth knowing what you are using and how it may be similar or may differ from your proposed new range.


Know what you a moving to -

As in the previous section, know what you are using and what you plan on moving to….this will help you to understand the effects that it may need on your technique to get the best from the pigment and its heal.


Why is this important? Just like if an artist changes the brand or type of paint they use, we can expect there to be a little learning curve. If you know the similarities or differences between the ranges then this learning curve is easier to predict and easier to navigate.

Implantation -

If you are switching from an in-organic line to an organic, you may need to saturate less, and/or work in fewer passes. Organics tend to implant easier as the carbon molecules that make them up implant quicker into the skin.


If are switching to an in-organic line from an organic you MAY have to layer a little more for your desired effect. In-Organics have slightly larger particle sizes and so a little more work is helpful with them 


If you are switching to a hybrid line, you should find yourself somewhere between in-organics and organics with how they implant, but usually the addition of a little carbon makes them easy to work with.


Fade off -

In-organics tend to have less colour fastness in the skin than Organics. When not implanted too deep or over saturated, this is great for artists that want to be able to refresh their work every few years without having to fight old pigment left in the skin. This also makes them more forgiving for beginners. Hybrids tend to ahve medium colour fastness.


Healed results -

Whether you’re changing from inorganic to organic, or just from brand to brand, it can take a while to decipher how your heel results look on different skin types and skin tones, so always take a "less is more" approach until you are sure of your heals.


Thickness - if you are used to using a thin pigment, a thicker pigment may require a needle which is slightly shorter in hang/length OR it could benefit from a little dilution, just too wet it up and make it run through the needle cartridge easier. If your pigment is highly pigmented a drop or two of dilution solution into a full pigment cap shouldn’t dilute the intended shade.


Be sure to check if you are diluting that you have a compatible dilution solution. Some pigments are water based and others glycerin based. Soft Fx dilution is aqua based and can be used with all li pigments and other aqua/water based pigments. 


If you are used to using a thick pigment, and are moving your something thinner there are some practicalities, like whether you choose to use a pigment ring or a pigment pot, so that your pigment doesn’t spill on the floor or your subject.


Colour choice -

If you are currently using an organic pigment, the larger component of carbon, can make these colors fade very cool over time. if switching to an in-organic pigment, you might expect for your results to be less cool, and less saturated overtime.


If you are using an in-organic pigment. The lack of carbon black can mean that these stay warmer and truer for longer.

Learn Your Colours -

Make swatches of both your new and your old lines - do you understand & Know your colours? 

Make sure you get the any color charts, read any available knowledge and take any available courses that are available from the manufacture and make your own color swatches.

Color swatches will give you visual education on your new colours and allow you to know, and understand them, without the complexity of skin types, techniques and skin tones getting in the way.


What Colours To Choose -

Know that you don’t need ALL colours! Usually 4-6 colours from a range is fine.

Often different ranges can have lots of different colors available. It’s usually not essential to have all of a range. Picking some good core colours, can be a lovely way to choose a new brand or a new range without making an excessive investment.

Good choices would be a classic light brown, which can be used on blondes and fair candidates, a medium brown, and a dark brown. Mixing these together, should enable you to create almost any color that you like.

It’s also useful for you to have an modifier or something warm as most clients tend to have a tendency to heal a little cool or ashy overtime

LI Pigments Colour Chart Guide Permanent Makeup Microblading Supplies Aqua

What NOT To Do 

Don’t change needles or aftercare, so you can be sure changes are down to pigment and not technique or needle type. Great record keeping, photos and notes are always helpful


A Note on Safety & Testing 

Takes YEARs for pigment house to test a new lines. We love a pretty heal a few weeks out, but the real test is time in the skin. All pigments will shift over time and potentially need some modifying over time.

Will your new brand soften enough to leave room in the skin to make these changes? … and if not how does it perform under laser?

We can tell a little bit about this by knowing the formulations well - pigment makers like LI Pigments have over 30+ years of knowledge when it comes to their ranges.

Alice Kingdom is a well known permanent makeup trainer, and international speaker.

If you would like more information about the contents of this article, we would love to hear from you!