A retouch is a perfecting session this should be completed once the skin has time to heal, and the colour time to settle.
Welcome your client, and tell them what the session is for....
"To see how the initial session has healed - and make any tweaks needed. It is also a perfect opportunity to amend shape and colour"
Consultation forms should be renewed or revisted, especially if your clients medication or lifestyle has changed. You should be asking questions and making notes about how their healing went, and any changes that they would like to make. If you want them to follow the same aftercare as before this is a good time to discuss it, or to implement changes if needed.
Before we do anything to the skin, we need an evaluation of your work.....
If there is very little shape left, or the client wants changes to their eyebrow shape, then redraw your template.
This is usually much quicker than the first time, as even if retention sucks you’ll likely have enough left to guide you. Beginners with microblading and PMU often stuggle to get good retention until their experience grows.... do not worry, it is better to have very little left, than have something which has healed too dark! With powder styles there may be some areas which are patchy which need addressing.
Discuss the colour with your client again. Using the same colour as you did on your first microblading or PMU session will improve intensity (and with it darkness) or would they like them a little darker still? If you are unsure of what colour to use, put a few pigment choices near their brows (like you probably did on the first session) and be guided by what your eyes tell you. Use your notes from your first session to determine if you think you need to add a few drops of something darker to your original choice.
It's important to note, that you don’t automatically revisit every stoke on a retouch, nor always cover every part of the brow with the same intensity. Your aim here is to mend, blend, improve & decorate the microblading or PMU.
If you go over existing strokes that are healed just fine. you are causing unnecessary trauma (and maybe scarring). Each time you revisit a stroke you risk it blurring - so leave the good ones alone!
For microblading you may like to use a smaller blade (lower blade/pin number, maybe a 7 or 9), or a U blade for a retouch so that you can fix beginnings and ends of strokes, and add new strokes in gaps where appropriate without your blade size being too large. A smaller blade will help you work in between healed strokes and create shorter strokes to fill small gaps.
With powder styles do not over work sections which have healed fine - rather blend areas that haven't in.
There is no text book way to do a retouch, as each persons skin and brows are different, and how their microblading or PMU has healed may be different too.
You should retouch as if you are editing, repairing or decorating the brows. Detailing and strengthening ends and filling gaps.
The skin takes a minimum of 4 weeks for skin cells to turn over - for superficial healing. This is the absolute minimum time you should leave before attempting a retouch, but for most clients this would be far too early.
I never like to retouch before 6 weeks (preferably 8-12 weeks) as some people take longer to heal, and the colour to settle, because of age or lifestyle factors. Using a 6-8 week window takes the guess work out, and keeps it the same for every client.
Colour refreshes (usually 12-24 Months) should also not be undertaken too early, as we compromise the skin with each session.
Everlasting Brows Educator